Stewart Island, Rakiura (the land of glowing skies) was visited by early Polynesian and Maori where they fished and hunted Titi, mutton birds. The early 1800s brought early European sealers and whalers who some settled, creating various small settlements around timber, boat building, farming and fishing. In 2002, Rakiura National Park was created, 157000 hectares about 85% of the island, protected and a sanctuary for the native forest and birds to regenerate and flourish. We camped among mature Rimu, Miro, Kamahi and Southern-Rata with Kiwi, Kaka and Kakariki. Paddled with little Blue Penguins, the Royal and Salvins Albatross, Fairy Prion, Giant Petrel, Skua, thousands of Turns, Shearwaters, Cormorants and Gulls. Counting a total of 35 species of native birds. We observed the behaviour of Sea Lions, 7 Gill sharks and Fur Seals. Tasted sea salt, seaweed, kelp, shellfish, crayfish and various finfish. Warmed and cooked with fires aware of minimising our human impact, leaving no trace of our visit.
We began in Oban traveling anti-clockwise along the coastline sometimes close in bays where we could hear bird song, sometimes over 5 kilometres offshore where 5-6 metre swell would surge up and down beneath us, often losing sight of each other in the multi-story house size waves. Coastlines are made up of golden granite beaches, sometimes massive crashing surf or long stretches of weathered cliffs battered and bashed by storms formed in the southern ocean. We'd often see a splash 12 metres high with sea spray into the treetops. The ocean felt alive around the Rakiura, powerful currents formed by Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea, where incoming and outgoing tides would flow up to 5 knots, at times with us, and other times against. Sometimes at tidal bottlenecks like the South Cape, it would stand waves up to 6 metres high. This is where we felt especially small, exposed to the great southern ocean to our right, kilometres of battered cliffs to our left and confused chop from the rebounding waves. All we could do was keep on paddling on.